I Watched Him Shopgirl His Girlfriend
Sihanoukville, Cambodia, may look close to Koh Chang, Thailand, on the map, but the journey’s quite a long one — I’ve been on the road for eleven hours, and I’ve only just arrived on the island. I’m sitting in the back of a sawngtaew on the way to the hippie enclave of Lonely Beach. To my left is an affable, mid-forties Scottish man; across from us is a couple in their late twenties. The guy is tall and Irish; his ponytailed girlfriend, Thai. “Reckon it gets hot in Koh Chang?” the Scotsman asks. “Not for her,” the Irish guy says, his arm draped lazily around his girlfriend. “She’s from the hottest part of Thailand. Right between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.” From the way the Thai girl looks at him, you’d think he was talking about how he discovered the cure for cancer. Her cheeks are pink; her eyes are shining. “We’ve been traveling all day and all night from Chiang Mai,” the Irish guy...